Sagrantino is an intensely colored red grape variety grown mainly in the Umbria region of central Italy. It is often described as Italy’s most tannic variety, surpassing even Nebbiolo in this respect.
Although the origins of Sagrantino are disputed, Umbria has been home to the variety for centuries. About 90% of the plantings (about 1,000 hectares) are located there.
The nature of the grape is most evident in the single-varietal wines of Montefalco Sagrantino. The clay soils of Montefalco are dusted with sand and pockets of limestone, to which the this grape responds well. Blends are permitted in the greater Montefalco region.
Characteristics of the Sagrantino grape
The Sagrantino variety is a dark, dense wine, almost unique to Umbria. Its fruit profile ranges from black cherries to ripe blackberries, with many secondary characteristics of spice and earth. A certain smokiness is sometimes noted in some examples, while piney flavors have been noted in others. It is a typically sweet yet savory wine.
Sagrantino’s high tannins and affinity for oak make it ripen particularly well. This is reflected in the local wine law stipulation that it should not be released until it has aged for at least 37 months, including a minimum of 12 months in oak.
But fortunately, tannins of this grape are not necessarily austere, and modern examples can be quite approachable in their youth. Sagrantino is more full-bodied than Sangiovese, its traditional blending partner.
Even rarer than the dry red wines made from Sagrantino and its blends are the passito de Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG varietal wines. These concentrated wines, made from semi-dry grapes, are comparable to vintage ports in their intensity and longevity.
Outside Italy, Sagrantino has been planted experimentally in several countries, including Australia, California and Argentina.
Sagrantino is one of Italy’s best red wines, so why don’t more people know about it?
The Sagrantino grape is grown in a relatively small area around the ancient town of Montefalco in Italy’s Umbria region. The grape is believed to be an indigenous variety, but there are different competing theories about its place of origin. But that’s beside the point, because the Sagrantino grape has found a home in central Italy that it loves.
It flourishes in a relatively small geographical area (less than 900 acres defined in 2018) around Montefalco, in the province of Perugia, in central Italy. It is one of those rare Italian varieties that grow almost nowhere else in the world, and efforts to transplant it to other regions and countries have not been commercially successful.
This grape is a thick-skinned, tannic red grape that produces big, intense, full-bodied wines. The wines – named after the variety – are packed with tannins and acidity and can be tough as nails in their youth. They require careful vineyard management and extended aging to soften their tannins and can take years, even decades, to reach optimum maturity.
Sagrantino di Montefalco (before 2009 it was formerly known as Sagrantino di Montefalco) is Umbria’s leading red wine and in recent years has received some international accolades.
– The main requirements for Montefalco Sagrantino dry (secco) wines are:
– The wines must have a minimum alcohol level of 13% and 13.5% if bearing the name of the vineyard.
– Be composed exclusively of Sagrantino grapes.
– They must be aged for a minimum of 37 months, of which no less than 12 months must be in wood barrels and 4 months in bottles.
This aging protocol is one of the longest for Italian wines and generally matches the 38 months required for Barolo, but is less than the 4-year minimum aging requirement for Brunello di Montalcino. While these wines can be enjoyed soon after release, it is only after a few additional years, when their flavors have evolved more fully and the tannins have softened further, that they can be fully enjoyed.
Most Sagrantino winemakers also produce a Sagrantino-blended wine called Montefalco Rosso. The Rosso has a shorter aging regime, with a minimum of 18 months and no need for oak aging, which helps the winery’s cash flow, while the more valuable Montefalco DOCG takes its time to age quietly in wood.
But it is not in the same league as Montefalco Sagrantino because Montefalco Rosso is a blended wine in which Sagrantino is limited to 25% of the total. Sangiovese makes up the majority, with a required minimum of 60% of the blend, and small amounts of other red grape varieties are allowed to be added.
But it is not in the same league as Montefalco Sagrantino because Montefalco Rosso is a blended wine in which Sagrantino is limited to 25% of the total. Sangiovese makes up the majority, with a required minimum of 60% of the blend, and small amounts of other red grape varieties are allowed to be added.
The end result is a rounder, fruitier and more approachable wine, and at $15 to $25 a bottle is less expensive than a Montefalco Sagrantino.
Montefalco Sagrantino wines have a complex personality and are among the richest and most powerful in Italy, and when properly aged are distinguished by their silky, enticing flavors and tannins. But despite these enviable attributes, they remain one of Italy’s least known wines. If you were to ask some of your wine-savvy friends their opinion of Sagrantino, chances are they would be left with their mouths agape.
Sagrantino grape specifications
– Sagrantino is a black grape native to Umbria.
– This black grape produces some of the most tannic wines on the planet.
– It produces still and passito style red wines.
– Sagrantino wine is dry, deep purple in color, full-bodied, and has medium to high acidity.
– This grape has aromas/flavors of plum, licorice, black pepper and black olive.
– The alcohol level of the dry reds ranges from 13.5% to 15%.
– Most of the Sagrantino comes from the village of Montefalco.
What are the flavors of Sagrantino wine?
This large black grape produces wines of such deep color that they are almost opaque. The dry red wines show flavors of black plum, strong tea, olive and pepper, plus spices such as licorice and cinnamon, and earth. Passito styles are syrupy, with layers of raisins and cranberries on the palate.
What is the pairing of Sagrantino wine?
Despite its potency, Sagrantino, in each of its variants, can pair well with a wide range of foods, from meats to vegetarian options to cheeses and desserts. Keep in mind its sweetness levels, its tannins and its fruity and spicy character when pairing this wine with food.
What type of wine is similar to Sagrantino?
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France.
- Bandol, France.
- Zinfandel, California.
- Right Bank Bordeaux, France.
- Rioja Riserva and Gran Riserva, Spain.
- Primitivo, Italy.
- Negroamaro, Italy.
- Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy.
- Ripasso della Valpolicella, Italy.
- Recioto della Valpolicella, Italy.
Curious facts
– Sagrantino is more tannic than the mighty Nebbiolo.
– This wine contains some of the highest levels of antioxidants of any red wine.
– There are indications that this wine was originally a communion wine.
Tannins
This thick-skinned, small-grained grape variety is the most tannic grape variety in Italy. That means it is a candidate to be the most tannic grape in the world. In this respect, it ranks alongside the Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat and Mourvèdre varieties.
Nor is it a grape variety devoid of sugar, fruit, or acidity. This means that Sagrantino wines are always massive, concentrated and powerful. They are deep, aromatic, and very flavorful, and have great potential for longevity. However, Sagrantino’s abundant tannins translate into harsh, astringent wines in the past. Think teabags, bitterness, and a full mouthfeel.
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